Thursday, March 13, 2014

2001 Yamaha V Star 650 Classic XVS650A-The Newest Ride.

This is a list of motorcycles I currently own.In the order they were purchased.
1989 Suzuki GS500R
1990 Suzuki GS500E
1992 Suzuki GS500E
1992 Suzuki GS500E
1993 Suzuki GS500E
2005 Suzuki GS500F converted to E model

And now I intro the newest and I will be sharing updates of all the farkles I do to it.

May 2013,I bought myself an unexpected birthday present,a 2001 Yamaha V Star 650 Classic aka XVS650A as known in other countries.A couple needed money due to an unexpected job loss.They put their motorcycle up for sale on a local Facebook community group sales page.I made a serious, but low offer on the motorcycle.They happily accepted my offer.Money and title changed hands and it was time to get to work.The bike came with a few accessories.It had an aftermarket knock off passenger back rest,cheap o decent saddle bags,and a National Cycle windshield.It even had the original tool pack in the side box.The bike had been neglected and needed full maintenance and some other work.First thing I did was change the engine oil,change the final drive oil,new spark plugs,new stock replacement air filter,adjusted the valves,new fuel filter,rebuilt the carbs,adjusted the carbs,and sync the carbs.After getting the motorcycle running perfectly,I felt the clutch was off.After doing some research,I found out the clutch has a super small friction area at the lever and it's at the end of the lever travel.I have small hands for a man,well short fingers for a man.So I needed the friction zone to be closer to the grip.I found the Clutch Adjustment Spring Mod on the home page of 650 VStar Custom, Classic, & Drag Star homepage.I also rejetted the carbs to #95 Mikuni main jets and 3 turns on the pilot mixture screws.It's great for my area and summer time riding.It does make the bike hard to start in temps below 60 degrees.

These are the pics of the bike as soon as I got it home.I promptly fixed the twisted seat and reinstalled the saddle bags properly.They were on backwards.Click images for a full view.

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Harbor Freight ATV Motorcycle Lift Jack

I recently received an email flyer from Harbor Freight.I usually don't buy much from them,especially something that could be potentially holding a $30,000+ motorcycles.I am slowly building up my tools with hopes of turning Manic Motorcycles into a repair and restoration shop.Now back to the flyer.The coupon was to get there ATV motorcycle lift jack for $69.99 which goes on sale frequently for $99.99, and I believe usually sales for $119.99.It's a solid built lift jack.It weighs roughly 75lbs or so.It assembles fairly easily.It took me 15 minutes to assemble the lift jack including the few minutes it took to get the pics I'm posting.


Here it is all boxed up and new.

Open the box admire and unbox.

First thing to do is install the actual jack in the frame.Lift the frame and slide the jack in pin first.Then tighten the bolts down.Not to tight.The fasteners aren't the best quality.

Now the foot pedal can be slipped in and bolted down.Just a little snug on the bolt.

Next,locate the mounting holes for the safety stop release bar and install it.

Now the pin for the handle can be removed and the handle installed.Orientation is up to you.Just make sure the pin points away from the jacking pedal.

Now step back and admire your work.

My lift jack was missing it's jack pin capture screw.I will dig one out of my jar o bolts.No biggie.Maybe 25 cent at the local hardware store if need be.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Ignition Coil Relay Mod


Symptoms-Sporadic cutting back and hesitation from idle through 3500rpm.Engine temperature has little effect on condition.

Attempts to resolve the problem.
Mulitiple carbs cleanings
Multiple electrical connection cleanings
Clean tank tank and fill with fresh fuel
Multiple valve clearance checks
Multiple carb balance/sync
Complete electrical system tear down and diagnose

Problem- 11.8 volts at the ignition coil terminals.Should be an absolute minimum of 12.0 volts.

The cure- Ignition coil relay mod.Power the coils directly from the battery and grounding the coils directly to the battery.

After reading about the ignition coil relay mod over on  The GS Resource Forum,I visited  Bass Cliff's website.Then I did the ignition relay mod.I haven't yet had a chance to ride and see if the problem resolves itself.I am positive that this mod can only help.I will hopefully be heading out in a little while to ride and see how the mod performs.I'm a wuss and have to wait for the afternoon warm up.

To do this mod you need the following.

wire stripers
soldering iron,gun,or pencil torch
wire cutters
needle nose pliers
metric socket set
JIS screw driver or philips head
long flat head/blade screw driver
BBQ or cigerette lighter
Dielectric grease
Small piece of sand paper- 40 to 200 grit

Supplies with cost break down.
$3.00 1/4 male spade terminals
$3.00 1.4 female terminals
$3.00 10 gauge uninsulated but connectors
$3.00 heat shrink kit from Harbor Freight
$4.00 14 gauge red primary wire 12'roll
$4.00 14 gauge black primary wire 12' roll
$7.00 solder
$1.00 electrical tape roll
$3.00 black wire ties
$5.00 30 amp horn/light relay
$7.00 30 amp fuse holder
$4.00 20 amp fuse-I could only get these in boxes of five.

$47.00 Total

If you can find it,use 16 gauge orange wire for the relay to ignition on wire.This will make sense later.I couldn't find orange wire locally.

Most of us have some of these supplies on hand.I did and I think my final cost was under $20.One thing I can not stress enough,DO NOT USE ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES FROM HARBOR FREIGHT.The shrink tubing is good.Their wire is copper coated aluminum and thier connectors are aluminum.The connectors I used are marine grade.They are expensive and over kill for this project.You can also use connectors with shrink wrap insulation and/or connector covers.I chose to use shrink wrap because I had uninsulated connectors.I despise the connectors with plastic on the bases.I usually pull the plastic off and use shrink wrap.

On with it.The ignition coils will be powered directly from the battery by the relay.The relay will be powered by the old ignition coil power wire.There are two.Only one will be used.The coils will also be grounded directly to the battery.This isn't complicated.Just take it one wire run at a time.All connections are coated with dielectric grease.

Here is the wiring diagram that I followed.This is from Bass Cliff's website linked above.

Remove the seat,battery,all the tail plastics,and fuel tank.Don't forget to turn off the tank petcock.

First thing I did was to locate,unplug,and tape off the left coil wire that wasn't going to be used.

I wire tied this to the frame.The pic I had of it has been lost.It may be visable in other pics.

Next I mounted the relay.Try to mount it as close to the battery as possible but leave enough room for the inline fuse.This is how I did it.

Locate and remove the right side hemet hook/lock and bolt down relay.No,it isn't touching the regulator rectifier.that is getting replaced later.

Some of my pics were lost so I will walk through this using my exsisting pics.

First thing I did was run power from the starter relay to the inline fuse and plug it into the relay.

I made connections to make the inline fuse removable.I have had these go bad and wanted to make it easy to replace.I crimped and soldered my connections.Then I double shrink wraped each terminal.All of my connections will be like this or better.

Then I ran a short wire into the starter relay cover.

Pull off those two white plugs.The lower lug terminal is the one that is powered all the time.

Run the wire up through the relay cover,install a ring connector,and bolt it on.

Install a spade connector on the end of the wire that was just connected to the starter relay.Then connect the inline fuse holder to the starter relay wire and terminal 30 on the relay.

Add some shrink wrap to help secure and protect the connection.

Install fuse and admire.

Here you can also see the relay ground.It is a simple loop of wire with a ring terminal on one end and a female terminal on the other end.It connects to terminal 85 on the relay.

Powering the coils from the relay.I installed a female connector on the end of my red wire roll and connected it to terminal 87 on the relay.They I unrolled the wire and ran it along the main wiring harness on the right side of the frame.I cut it off when I made it up between the coils and installed a but connector.Then I made two short wires with female connectors to run to each coil terminal.I removed the wiring for solder and shrink wrap.

Here the wiring is connected to the coil + positive terminal.You can also see how I taped and wire tied the old connector.

Some notes here about the trigger wire for the relay.If you can find 16 gauge orange wire,use it.The original coil wire is orange with a white or green stripe.This makes it easier to know what wire is what,should a problem arise.You could also use thinner 16 gauge red primary wire or loner lengths of shring wrap to help distinguish between the two.This wire is also protected by the main wiring harness fuse so no other fuse will be needed.

The connection is super easy almost as easy as the relay ground.I installed a female terminal on the end of my red roll of primary wire and ran it along the mainwiring harness.I cut it off at the right coil + positive wire.I installed a spade terminal,pulled out the old coil + positive wire,connected them, and shrink wrapped the connection.I pushed the original coil wire cover back in place.

Now the wiring can be tucked away and the coil to battery ground can be ran.

The coils are grounded to the frame and over time the connection is lost due to corrosion and rust.This mod helps to offset that.

First thing is to make up two 8 inch wires with ring connectors like so.

Then add a but connector to the two short wires and connect the black roll of 12 gauge primary wire.Here is a pic of the but connection from eailer as a reminder.

Remove the inside coil mount bolts and connect the wires with the ring terminals like so.Be aware that the aluminum coil stand offs will drop out when the bolt is removed.Clean the metal coil end with sand paper and bolt the ring terminals on the coils.

Unroll the wire and run it along the main harness until it makes it to the battery negative terminal.Install a ring connector.

Now comes the fun part,securing the wiring.I used plastic zip ties.It looks pretty good considering it was a rush job.There is a glare or something at the top of the pic that makes it look like there is more wires thatn there actual is.

After doing the mod,I didn't have enough room for the relay under the seat,so I flipped it over.Works like a dream.

After this mod,my voltage went from 11.8 to 12.4 with a battery that has set for six months without use.I expect the voltage to be higher after I run the bike and build
the battery back up. 

Do not forget to turn that damn tank petcock back on.

Please note that I had to remove the wiring and take it into my building to solder the wiring.I left the camera outside with the bike.