SINCE POSTING THIS,I HAVE PUT 130 MILES ON THE MOD.THE BIKE IDLES MORE SMOOTHLY AND HAS BETTER PICK UP.I CAN ALREADY TELL THAT MY FUEL MILEAGE IS UP.I HAD A DRY TANK WHEN I REASSEMBLED THE BIKE.I FILLED THE BIKE UP COMPLETELY.AT 130 MILES,I USUALLY HAVE LESS THAN A HALF TANK.I HAVE JUST ABOVE THAT.IT MAY NOT BE THAT MUCH BETTER, BUT ANY GAIN IS AN INDICATION THAT THE COIL RELAY MOD WORKS.
Symptoms-Sporadic cutting back and hesitation from idle through 3500rpm.Engine temperature has little effect on condition.
Attempts to resolve the problem.
Mulitiple carbs cleanings
Multiple electrical connection cleanings
Clean tank tank and fill with fresh fuel
Multiple valve clearance checks
Multiple carb balance/sync
Complete electrical system tear down and diagnose
Problem- 11.8 volts at the ignition coil terminals.Should be an absolute minimum of 12.0 volts.
The cure- Ignition coil relay mod.Power the coils directly from the battery and grounding the coils directly to the battery.
After reading about the ignition coil relay mod over on The GS Resource Forum,I visited Bass Cliff's website.Then I did the ignition relay mod.I haven't yet had a chance to ride and see if the problem resolves itself.I am positive that this mod can only help.I will hopefully be heading out in a little while to ride and see how the mod performs.I'm a wuss and have to wait for the afternoon warm up.
To do this mod you need the following.
soldering iron,gun,or pencil torch
needle nose pliers
metric socket set
JIS screw driver or philips head
long flat head/blade screw driver
BBQ or cigerette lighter
Small piece of sand paper- 40 to 200 grit
Supplies with cost break down.
$3.00 1/4 male spade terminals
$3.00 1.4 female terminals
$3.00 10 gauge uninsulated but connectors
$3.00 heat shrink kit from Harbor Freight
$4.00 14 gauge red primary wire 12'roll
$4.00 14 gauge black primary wire 12' roll
$1.00 electrical tape roll
$3.00 black wire ties
$5.00 30 amp horn/light relay
$7.00 30 amp fuse holder
$4.00 20 amp fuse-I could only get these in boxes of five.
If you can find it,use 16 gauge orange wire for the relay to ignition on wire.This will make sense later.I couldn't find orange wire locally.
Most of us have some of these supplies on hand.I did and I think my final cost was under $20.One thing I can not stress enough,DO NOT USE ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES FROM HARBOR FREIGHT.The shrink tubing is good.Their wire is copper coated aluminum and thier connectors are aluminum.The connectors I used are marine grade.They are expensive and over kill for this project.You can also use connectors with shrink wrap insulation and/or connector covers.I chose to use shrink wrap because I had uninsulated connectors.I despise the connectors with plastic on the bases.I usually pull the plastic off and use shrink wrap.
On with it.The ignition coils will be powered directly from the battery by the relay.The relay will be powered by the old ignition coil power wire.There are two.Only one will be used.The coils will also be grounded directly to the battery.This isn't complicated.Just take it one wire run at a time.All connections are coated with dielectric grease.
Here is the wiring diagram that I followed.This is from Bass Cliff's website linked above.
Remove the seat,battery,all the tail plastics,and fuel tank.Don't forget to turn off the tank petcock.
First thing I did was to locate,unplug,and tape off the left coil wire that wasn't going to be used.
I wire tied this to the frame.The pic I had of it has been lost.It may be visable in other pics.
Next I mounted the relay.Try to mount it as close to the battery as possible but leave enough room for the inline fuse.This is how I did it.
Locate and remove the right side hemet hook/lock and bolt down relay.No,it isn't touching the regulator rectifier.that is getting replaced later.
Some of my pics were lost so I will walk through this using my exsisting pics.
First thing I did was run power from the starter relay to the inline fuse and plug it into the relay.
I made connections to make the inline fuse removable.I have had these go bad and wanted to make it easy to replace.I crimped and soldered my connections.Then I double shrink wraped each terminal.All of my connections will be like this or better.
Then I ran a short wire into the starter relay cover.
Pull off those two white plugs.The lower lug terminal is the one that is powered all the time.
Run the wire up through the relay cover,install a ring connector,and bolt it on.
Install a spade connector on the end of the wire that was just connected to the starter relay.Then connect the inline fuse holder to the starter relay wire and terminal 30 on the relay.
Add some shrink wrap to help secure and protect the connection.
Install fuse and admire.
Here you can also see the relay ground.It is a simple loop of wire with a ring terminal on one end and a female terminal on the other end.It connects to terminal 85 on the relay.
Powering the coils from the relay.I installed a female connector on the end of my red wire roll and connected it to terminal 87 on the relay.They I unrolled the wire and ran it along the main wiring harness on the right side of the frame.I cut it off when I made it up between the coils and installed a but connector.Then I made two short wires with female connectors to run to each coil terminal.I removed the wiring for solder and shrink wrap.
Here the wiring is connected to the coil + positive terminal.You can also see how I taped and wire tied the old connector.
Some notes here about the trigger wire for the relay.If you can find 16 gauge orange wire,use it.The original coil wire is orange with a white or green stripe.This makes it easier to know what wire is what,should a problem arise.You could also use thinner 16 gauge red primary wire or loner lengths of shring wrap to help distinguish between the two.This wire is also protected by the main wiring harness fuse so no other fuse will be needed.
The connection is super easy almost as easy as the relay ground.I installed a female terminal on the end of my red roll of primary wire and ran it along the mainwiring harness.I cut it off at the right coil + positive wire.I installed a spade terminal,pulled out the old coil + positive wire,connected them, and shrink wrapped the connection.I pushed the original coil wire cover back in place.
Now the wiring can be tucked away and the coil to battery ground can be ran.
The coils are grounded to the frame and over time the connection is lost due to corrosion and rust.This mod helps to offset that.
First thing is to make up two 8 inch wires with ring connectors like so.
Then add a but connector to the two short wires and connect the black roll of 12 gauge primary wire.Here is a pic of the but connection from eailer as a reminder.
Remove the inside coil mount bolts and connect the wires with the ring terminals like so.Be aware that the aluminum coil stand offs will drop out when the bolt is removed.Clean the metal coil end with sand paper and bolt the ring terminals on the coils.
Unroll the wire and run it along the main harness until it makes it to the battery negative terminal.Install a ring connector.
Now comes the fun part,securing the wiring.I used plastic zip ties.It looks pretty good considering it was a rush job.There is a glare or something at the top of the pic that makes it look like there is more wires thatn there actual is.
After doing the mod,I didn't have enough room for the relay under the seat,so I flipped it over.Works like a dream.
After this mod,my voltage went from 11.8 to 12.4 with a battery that has set for six months without use.I expect the voltage to be higher after I run the bike and build
the battery back up.
Do not forget to turn that damn tank petcock back on.
Please note that I had to remove the wiring and take it into my building to solder the wiring.I left the camera outside with the bike.